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Restaurateurs to fight 'cow town' stigma

by Brandon Darnell, published on March 27, 2012 at 6:14 PM

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More than 20 restaurateurs are joining forces to promote Sacramento’s dining scene and edge away from the image of the city being a barren “cow town” with a dearth of good restaurants.

“One of our main standards is to raise the level of the Sacramento dining scene and how we are viewed from the outside,” said Adam Pechal, co-owner of Tuli Bistro and Restaurant Thir13en.

“We feel like we have almost a bad rap – cow town and all that,” he added. “We have a bunch of great chefs doing great stuff.”

The group, called Sactown Dining Collective, was started by Amber Turner, a marketing specialist with a love for Sacramento’s restaurant scene.

“It started back in November, and there were several things that led up to it,” she said Tuesday. “Facebook had a lot to do with it. It blows me away how instrumental Facebook can be in orchestrating something like this.”

One of the major catalysts for the formation of the group was a survey published by LivingSocial that named Sacramento as the second-worst place in the nation for dining.

“In looking at it from my corporate background, when we see a threat or opportunity, it’s not uncommon for a group to get together and leverage one another’s strengths,” Turner said.

A Facebook message sent to about 30 people ended up resulting in the first of a series of meetings Jan. 30.

The most recent meeting was held Monday, and Pechal said the group’s major focus now is to hold a kickoff event, likely in the first part of May, that will introduce the group to the public and the media, allowing locals to participate in raising the stock of the local dining scene.

“Pretty much every well-known chef in town was there,” Pechal said. “It’s cool to get in an environment where we can all talk to each other.”

Mutual support among Sacramento’s restaurateurs is not surprising, Pechal said, as many of them are friends and support each other, despite competing for business.

Another local chef, Billy Ngo of Kru, a Midtown Japanese restaurant, said he thinks a major goal of the group will be to get recognition in national food publications.

“All these big media magazines never come here,” he said. “We have great restaurants, like The Kitchen, and they deserve recognition.”

He said the group is in its formative stages, and it is too early to say whether it is headed toward a formal nonprofit trade organization status or something else.

“We talked the last couple of days about the problems we’re having and how to get things changed,” he said. “We want to see what we can do to elevate this town.”

Pechal said that updates for the kickoff event will be posted on the group’s Facebook page.

Some of the restaurants and suppliers involved in Sactown Dining Collective include Kru, The Kitchen, Mulvaney’s B&L, The Golden Bear, Tuli Bistro, Restaurant Thir13en and Chocolate Fish Coffee.

Pechal said the group, currently at more than 20 members, is still growing.

Brandon Darnell is a staff reporter for The Sacramento Press. Follow him on Twitter @Brandon_Darnell.

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Conversation Express your views, debate, and be heard with those in your area closest to the issue.RSS Feed

edited on  March 28, 2012 | 9:20 AM
I just pitched a story to the New York Times touting Sacramento's dining scene. As a restaurant critic and food writer, I am available to consult with the Sactown Dining Collective.
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March 27, 2012 | 9:37 PM
Sacramento has great food. Sacramento is the best kept secret in California!
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March 27, 2012 | 11:51 PM
It might just be easier if people either just ignored the idiots who call us a "cowtown," or just started punching them in the face more often, and just enjoy good food for the sake of enjoying it, not because we think we have something to prove. Get over it and enjoy what your city has to offer!
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March 28, 2012 | 2:02 PM
Agree with the ignore part (ok I failed on the newguy's comment) (and btw, "cow" town?! Seriously, it's just so unimagineivly dispariging. We deserve a better diss...goldtown, railtown, cantown, tomatoetotown, rivertown, airforcetown, capitaltown...almost any description beyond a cow reference would be more appropriate) but the real issue here is our brand. Outside visitors are one way to grow the pie...and if they see cowtown, they think cowtown...and they visit Napa instead. Those dollars go elsewhere...and we could use them here. That's why this effort matters, and I'm all for it.
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March 28, 2012 | 2:59 PM
One sure sign that we still are a cow town would be to punch them in the face.
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March 28, 2012 | 8:54 PM
Truly, the best revenge is living well. But punching people in the face is an acceptable substitute!
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JWS
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March 29, 2012 | 7:45 AM
I know you are trying to funny but come on. If you have to punch someone because they don't like your city then I'd say you are afraid there's some truth in what they say and just prove that you aren't in fact living very well.
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March 29, 2012 | 8:09 AM
I suppose that's just my Chicago side coming out--my original hometown. Chicago was the original "cow town," first becoming well-known for their slaughterhouses, grain mills and excellent transportation network. But anyone visiting the Windy City spouting that "cow town" nonsense should expect a serving of delicious Chicago-style knuckle sandwich!
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JWS
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edited on  March 29, 2012 | 10:31 PM
Well I wouldn't think that the term 'cowtown' would have applied to Chicago for a very long time. IMO only New Yorkers could get a way with saying such a thing after the later part of the 19th C. That is why I never really got the cow-art-installations in Chicago a few years back. I thought they would have been far more appropriate in KC or Sacramento.
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March 30, 2012 | 8:23 AM
Because Chicago's slaughterhouses were still economically important until well into the 20th century, I'd imagine, and because Chicago lacks our problem about low self-esteem (they don't call it the "Windy City" because of the wind off the lake, they call it that because Chicagoans never stop talking about how great Chicago is!) they aren't afraid to acknowledge that part of the city's legacy as something that made Chicago great. There's also a "cow connection" to the Great Chicago Fire--the old song about Mrs. O'Leary's cow starting the great fire after knocking over a lantern.

If Sacramento can overcome its little self-esteem issue and embrace our real, industrial past instead of accepting the "cowtown myth" that has been thrust upon us, we can riff on it in the same way, and lead the conversation with what's great about this city--like our excellent dining scene. Maybe what we need is a bunch of "giant tomato" art installations all over town?

And if you really are put off by threats of fisticuffs, maybe a more appropriate Sacramento-style response to the "cowtown" remark is to pelt the offending idiot with locally-grown tomatoes!
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JWS
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April 1, 2012 | 9:49 AM
Yes, I'd much prefer throwing rotten tomatoes at them.
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March 27, 2012 | 11:52 PM
Here here!
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March 28, 2012 | 8:02 AM
As a member of this group I can tell you this is less about trying to prove anything to anyone and more about highlighting our chefs and restaurants. There are those outside of Sacramento who see us as a one trick pony with not much to offer which is not the case.
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March 28, 2012 | 9:22 AM
Can you talk about how you plan to reach out to media beyond Sacramento? The media I have pitched on Sacramento tend to yawn first.
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March 28, 2012 | 11:42 AM
Have you thought of creating a Sacramento Dining Guide? With some professional writing, photography and video? Chefs bios, recipes, restaurant features and the like.
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March 28, 2012 | 1:37 PM
Andy;
News10 would love to talk to you. Please e-mail me at mgaskill@news10.net. I'm one of the producers here.
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March 28, 2012 | 9:12 AM
No matter how good a few restaurants are, Sacramento always has been and will always remain a cowtown.
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March 28, 2012 | 1:45 PM
Well "newguyinsac", it would appear you've got quite the closed mind and clearly not a clue as to what our local talent is capable of. You are however entitled to your opinion so to those like you I say, ... wait and see.
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March 28, 2012 | 1:48 PM
perhaps the dumbest comment yet
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March 28, 2012 | 3:19 PM
Really newguyinsac? People who say Sacramento will always remain a cowtown are usually born and raised in Sacramento so it's surprising to hear that talk from a newbie. I am curious about where you have come from and your experience with the restaurant scene there.
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March 29, 2012 | 12:58 PM
I think the lie about Sacramento being a "cow town" had a marketing value at a certain point, because it was never actually true. But that point, if it ever existed, is long past us.
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JWS
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March 29, 2012 | 10:38 PM
Thats funny because I remember not that many years ago seeing shots of cows in a field with the newly built ARCO Arena in the background. The LA (Lakers Fans) commentary was predictably condescending.
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March 30, 2012 | 8:15 AM
The fields around Sacramento were farm towns--but so were the fields around San Francisco, Chicago, Los Angeles (a place known as "Queen of the Cow Counties" when we were the second biggest city in the state), New York, and really every other city. That's another thing that cities do--as they grow, the land use around them gets more intensive, and during the 20th century, a lot of former farmland got turned into suburbs. Natomas was farmland until recently because its levees weren't considered sturdy enough to hold back regular flooding...and, at least according to the Army Corps of Engineers, they aren't sturdy enough now.

That sort of suburban expansion is part of a more legitimate criticism of urban growth in Sacramento, as well as many other cities: because we built sprawling suburbs, we took away energy from growth downtown. Instead of building more skyscrapers downtown, we built "landscrapers" on top of farmland in Carmichael, Citrus Heights, Fair Oaks, Roseville etcetera.
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March 30, 2012 | 11:13 AM
I've lived plenty of places with better restaurants than Sacramento and while Sacramento has a few good ones, the number of decent restaurants is really about average for this size of city. Maybe someone can tell me how many Sacramento area chefs or restaurants have been recognized with national awards? Any James Beard winners in town? And please don't point to how many local places have been highlighted by Guy Fieri on DDD. Of course local-boy-does-good is going to showcase his hometown.
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March 28, 2012 | 1:50 PM
Sacramento has some great dinner houses--luncheon places too. I've dined in both. The fact that many so-called "restaurants" are also bars or clubs with some serving mediocre food confuses what constitutes a quality "restaurant.".
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March 28, 2012 | 2:05 PM
I see your point. This is an issue in many areas. As the SDC evolves, we may get involved in making those lines clearer. Our main focus is our community and utilizing all of the wonderful things that make this a great dining city such as locally grown produce. Introducing our community to our chefs is also a key element. You are correct in that there are those places in our area which are not clearly defined Dale. I can tell you the SDC message will come across in a crystal clear manner through our events.
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March 28, 2012 | 9:04 PM
I think Dale's issue is more along the lines of places that get a "general eating place" alcohol license (instead of the more expensive bar-only permit), the kind restaurants get that assume most of their business will come from the sale of food, tell the neighbors their plan is to open a "family restaurant," and then open a bar that may or may not occasionally sell nachos, hot wings or sliders, depending on how recently they had their last ABC inspection. It's a dishonest way to run a business and sets a bad precedent for the places in town that actually do offer excellent dining as well as a full bar.
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March 28, 2012 | 3:23 PM
I used to live in a city of over 10 million and find Sacramento's restaurant scene, while naturally small by comparison, pretty good. If there is one sign that we still might be a cow-town it's our prohibition against food trucks. Granted the restaurants involved in SDC are probably not guilty of pressuring the council. Rather it's the first wavers who now sit on their past reputation, the 'good old boys' and their family connections that try to keep us down at their has-been level. But I applaud these newer guys for their efforts. I'm a big fan and patron.
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March 28, 2012 | 9:01 PM
I don't see the main promoter of anti-food-truck advocacy on their member list, so that's a good sign. The food truck prohibition is very recent--just a couple of years old--so it's hardly a long-standing tradition, just a recent aberration and an attempt to maintain the business status quo. Hopefully now that the proposed statewide food truck ordinance has gone up in flames (yay!) the citywide rule (which was waiting on the outcome of state legislation) will be next to fall.

Just be glad you don't live in Davis--their food-truck law limits their stops to 10 minutes!
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JWS
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March 29, 2012 | 7:50 AM
No one said the food-truck restriction was a long standing tradition. Rather that a small group of long-established business are in support of it.
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March 29, 2012 | 12:57 PM
Well, Mark said it was a sign that "we still might be a cow-town," so it is incorrect in several ways--it is neither a long-standing tradition that locals cling to (as you point out), but we were never really a cow town either.
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JWS
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March 29, 2012 | 10:47 PM
I don't follow your line of reasoning William. But whatever. As to your point that we were never a really a cow town.... depends on our definition I guess. But go ask someone from San Francisco or Los Angeles.
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March 29, 2012 | 11:21 PM
Well, what's your definition of "cow town"? To me, it implies a farm town--and we were never a farm town.
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March 29, 2012 | 2:10 AM
Biz must be slow..
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JWS
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March 29, 2012 | 8:29 AM
I frequent many of SCD establishments and I don't find that they're biz is slow at all. People will always be attracted to good food as long as the service is up to par and the prices reasonably reflect both.
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March 29, 2012 | 10:17 AM
Ummm...guys aren't you forgetting this? http://www.bizjournals.com/sacramento/blog/mark-anderson/2011/12/sacramento-restaurants-open-table-list.html Out of the 10 California restaurants in the national top 100 came from SACRAMENTO! If that makes us a Cow Town, let's own it, stab the beast, and serve five star burgers (figuratively speaking of course!) I am a total food snob. I love SacTown's restaurant scene. God bless Mulvaney!!!!!!! Don't be so freaked out about the Cow Town thing. NYC is the Big Apple, right? Where are the apples in NYC? Let's flip it on its head. "Embrace the cow, enjoy the meal"....lol (sorry vegans)
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March 29, 2012 | 12:56 PM
Problem is, Sacramento never had much in the way of cows--just one slaughterhouse at Swanston. We were called "The Big Tomato," for our canneries and other agricultural industries--we didn't grow tomatoes either, but this is the city where stuff got canned (because, like Chicago, we had a great transportation network.)

Although we do serve some fantastic burgers in this town, and a nice slice of tomato goes very well on top of said burgers.
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JWS
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March 29, 2012 | 10:58 PM
I like Christina Marie's attitude. I never heard Sacramento called "the Big Tomato" - I guess it was before my time. I've heard the term ' sacra-tomato' which sounds like a bunch of dumb valley kids got it wrong somewhere along the way - because it was supposed to be 'sack-of-tomato'. But I have no idea if that is true.
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March 29, 2012 | 11:27 PM
Before either of our times, I think--I got the line from a guy who grew up in Sacramento in the 1930s and worked for the Libby cannery. I've heard "Sacra-tomato" too, which is kind of silly sounding but still playing on the same theme. Supposedly, the real old timers called it "Sackamenna"--a lot of early Sacramentans came from New York, so it's likely a lot of folks on K Street 100 years ago had a New York accent (aside from those who came here from Italy, Portugal, Germany, Ireland, Japan or China, etcetera.) Sacramento's big businesses up until after World War II were railroad shops (we were the main shops for two transcontinental railroads) and turning farm products into stuff that could be shipped--canning fruits and vegetables, beer and wine bottling, dairy products, etcetera. But none of it was grown here--the farmers shipped their stuff to Sacramento, and we turned it into something else and shipped it out on one of our railroads or the river. That's what cities do, really.
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March 30, 2012 | 10:17 AM
I agree that Sacramento has some outstanding dining experiences -- in some cases, equal to or better than the Bay Area. KVIE Public Television (where I work) is trying to create a regional version of the very popular "Check Please" series that originated in Chicago, and now has local versions in Miami, Kansas City and San Francisco:

http://blogs.kqed.org/checkplease/

http://www.pbs.org/food/shows/check-please-chicago/

It's a wonderful concept: each week, besides a regular host, a different trio of "regular folks" talks about their favorite eatery. The other two foodies react to the third one's favorite (they may agree it's great; just OK; or maybe not so good). It's lively, entertaining, and really educates local viewers about dozens of different restaurants in our area. We're trying to secure funding to launch the series, so wish us luck!
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March 30, 2012 | 10:48 AM
Mark, can you email me at edmurrieta@gmail.com? I'd love to speak with you about the project for an upcoming article. Thanks. Ed.
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March 30, 2012 | 10:43 AM
I asked the Los Angeles' Times' Pulitzer-winning food critic about Sacramento's dining scene: "But as for chefs? You're right. Not on radar. Direct message sent by jonathan gold (@thejgold) to you (@edmurrieta)"
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March 30, 2012 | 10:44 AM
But he gave Corti Bros. some love: "I often drive 50 miles out of the way to go to Corti Bros., which is the Lourdes of American supermarkets. Stunning Viet food
Direct message sent by jonathan gold (@thejgold) to you (@edmurrieta) on Mar 29, 11:32 PM."
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edited on  March 31, 2012 | 11:08 AM
Hey Ed, I appreciate all of the conversation this article had started. Message me on Facebook and I can give you contact info for Michael Sanford at KVIE.
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April 1, 2012 | 6:40 AM
Hey, that's great if you have a new celebrity chef or a James Beard award-winner opening a new farm-to-table communal-organic post-modern-continental-fusion restaurant that gets critics all atwitter, but I think the true test of a city's culinary scene is the quality of the more accessible foods. How good are your ethnic hole-in-the-walls, deli's, burger joints et cetera? In that regard Sacto is a mixed bag, but more good than bad. I never found any Chinese food I loved or very good Mexican, but that can be said of 99% of the nation. Sac is blessed with outstanding Vietnamese and Thai, as well as the aforementioned burgers. You can find great breakfasts without too much trouble, and I'd throw a hobo from a moving train for a Corti Bros out here in Nashville. Also, the farmers market situation is as good as you'll find any where. It's been said before, but the hand-wringing about "Is Sac a Cow town or a world class city" is a real waste of time and energy. Sacramento is rad but with plenty of issues, not the least of which is an inferiority complex. .
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April 1, 2012 | 9:14 AM
Thanks for bringing it back to the positive, Lindol. I'm guilty of a little too much bile arguing about the "cow town" thing myself, instead of just blowing it off and enjoying my next burger. Did you ever make it to Lalo's when you were out here? It might have revised your position about Mexican food--my tongue wrote me a thank-you note after my last visit!
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JWS
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April 1, 2012 | 10:49 AM
Well the whole "cow town" thing is part of the pitch and its in the title of this article so there's no need for guilt. I think we are being positive, for the most part. Pointing out both good and bad is not being negative, it's critical thinking and tasting. If there wasn't any of that we wouldn't have any good restaurants.
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JWS
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April 1, 2012 | 10:57 AM
We have a dearth of good, authentic Italian food IMO. And I am wondering when Hawks is coming to Midtown/Downtown?
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April 1, 2012 | 3:51 PM
Lalo's is the only Mexican place in Sac that I miss. They do great work.
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edited on  April 1, 2012 | 8:16 PM
JWS: By "good, authentic" Italian food, do you mean "southern Italian"? Isn't Hawks supposed to go into the new building under construction at Alhambra and Stockton across from the Libby cannery and the post office?
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JWS
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April 2, 2012 | 12:32 AM
William not necessarily southern Italian, any and all regions. I thought i read one time that Hawks was going into the recently renovated building at 16th/K St. -where the anatomically correct bull sculpture once stood.
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April 2, 2012 | 8:13 AM
The bit about Alhambra was in the Bee a few months ago, at the "letter of intent" stage. It would make a good fit for the bull corner at 16th and K--good high-profile corner, I have been watching them work on that corner and noted it would make a good place for a higher-end restaurant. I'm more of a Squeeze Inn regular now that they have a Midtown location but might give it a try in either spot.
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April 1, 2012 | 6:45 AM
With regards to "Restaurant Thir13en." Spelling words with numbers replacing letters: Not witty, not cool, not edgy. Super, super lame. M8trix and Se7en and durpa durpa durpa doo.
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April 1, 2012 | 11:28 PM
Only great food will come of this, Yummm.
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