STORYLINE Stranger in a Strange Land.

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I had meant for my second article to be an ode to my new neighborhood, Midtown.  In my brief time here, I have found a lot to love about the area around my 1 bedroom on 18th and G.  I would love to wax poetic about the virtues of having two dope, locally owned, coffee shops within a five minute walk (Butch and Nellies, Old Soul at the Weatherford).  There's nothing I'd rather do than tell you about the lovely dining experience I had my first night here at Michealangelos, a little Italian Trattoria a stones throw from my front porch (Thanks Sara Jean!).  If I could, I'd spend an entire paragraph extolling the virtues of "Streets of London", a British style pub that has "football" on the tube, Guinness on tap, moist and flaky fish and chips coming out the fryer, and is happy to switch one of their TV's over to Pac 10 basketball when asked by a grown man wearing a beard, a mohawk and a Malik Hairston  jersey (Go Ducks!). These are all things I'd like to do, but can't.  Not now, not in good conscience. Not when I know how perilously close we (the first time I've ever used "we" to describe myself and other Sacramentoans, it's really happening!) are about to lose one of our greatest cultural and culinary resources- the taco truck.

I love taco trucks.  Some might say I am obsessed with taco trucks.  I would disagree, but I can certainly why one might think so.  I'll never forget the first time that I ate at a taco truck.  It was a fall morning (there is nothing better than tacos for breakfast!) in 1993. I was a sophomore in high school. We cut 3rd period (Sorry Miss Galeano) and a friend of mine took us to a truck parked in front of a small church on Middlefield road in Redwood City. (I don't know if I ever thanked you, Greg Lomba, but I am forever grateful)  Now, saying we went to "a" truck is a little misleading.  We went to "THE" truck.  El Grullo. The Gold Standard.  The Truth. The One Truck to Rule Them All.  Their salsa roja is so good that Im getting emotional just thinking about it.  The salsa verde? The best I've ever had.  The two of them together, with a meat of your choosing, onions (mucho cebolla por favor), cilantro, a squeeze of lime and jalapeno OH MY GOD I would strangle a newborn kitten for an al pastor taco from El Grullo right now. . . um hey . . . didn't see you there. . .I was just kidding about the kitten. . . as far as you know.  What Im saying is it's a little slice of heaven on two grease soaked tortillas and not to be overly dramatic, but it will change your life.  Once you've tried it, you're not the same as you were before, you're changed (ed. movie?).  Since that day I've constantly sought, yet never found, a taco its equal.

I moved to upstate New York for my freshman year at Hamilton College.  Now, there are some who will insist that you can't get a good taco in New York City, I won't go that far, but I can state unequivocally that you can't get one in Clinton, New York.  The only place to get tacos in Clinton are an Italian restaurant that has a taco night, Taco Bell, and the cafeteria.  By far and away the best of the three is punching yourself in the groin and skipping dinner.  By the end of October, when my parents asked me what I would like sent to me in my "care package", there was only one thing that I wanted.  My parents didn't balk at my request, they didn't hesitate for a moment.  Two days later, I received an overnight delivery of 50 El Grullo tacos, sent on dry ice(my parents are freaking awesome).  I was the most popular kid on the floor of my dorm that week, at least with those of whom I deemed worthy of sharing my loot.  The others were taunted and tormented by the sweet spicy aroma of authentic California taco truck tacos wafting out of the communal kitchen at all hours of the day and night.  Those poor East Coast prep school saps didn't know what hit 'em.  It must have been torture.

Before my sophomore year, I transferred to the University of Oregon, mainly to be closer to El Grullo.  That's not entirely true, but who knows why anybody ever does anything? I'm certain that, deep down, being so far away from El G played a role in my decision.  So, in February of my sophomore year, 1998, I flew out to Reno for a good friends 21st birthday.  As you can imagine, an uproariously good time was had by all, and by the time my buddy and I were set to return, we were feeling A LOT worse for wear.  Hmm if only there were some magical elixir that cures epic hangovers. . . Oh wait, there is! Taco truck tacos! (ed. Its a fact, there's been numerous studies)  We had an hour and a half layover at SFO, not long enough to leave and come back, but if we could just find someone willing to make the taco run and drop them off. . .  Our flight arrived at SFO twenty minutes behind schedule.  I hurried outside to the "departures" area and de facto smoking section.  I had time for a smoke and, hopefully, a delivery.  I was beginning to think all was lost, 15 minutes to take off, when my stepdad pulled up to the curb in front of me.  He popped out of the car, duffel bag in hand.  Wordlessly, he handed the bag over to me, gave me a hug and I was off (Pieter is the man).  It probably looked like a drug drop. . .  in a way it was.  Suffice it to say, it would have been far trickier to pull off post 9/11.  I'll never forget the look on the face of my traveling partner, Mike Meisel, as I sprinted up to the gate, Orenthal James style, duffel bag under my arm full to bursting with mexican street food galore. Tacos, Burritos and Tortas, Oh My!   My housemates would be ecstatic.  The same can't be said for the rest of the passengers on Alaska Airlines flight 221, nonstop from SFO to EUG.  I would venture it was the finest smelling flight I've ever been on.

Which brings us back to the here and now.  In 2008, the Sacramento City Council voted unanimously (ed. WHAT?!? I may have to run out of principal, on the platform of "All these other A-holes want to exterminate taco trucks") to pass a measure that effectively abolished taco trucks in the City of Sacramento.  Even from private parking lots where-in the owners have given the trucks their permission to operate.  THIS ISN"T RUSSIA! This isn't Russia is it Danny?  Where there were once twenty some taco trucks, there remain only nine which were grandfathered in until the year 2012.  Hmmmm, 2012. . . . eh. . . . why does that year sound so familiar? . . . isn't something else supposed to happen in 2012? Oh yeah, thats right,  THE END OF THE &%$#@%& WORLD!!!!  If you think that the two things are unrelated, you're deluding yourself.  The two go hand in hand, skipping down the road toward Hell, paved, no doubt, with the good intentions of the Sacramento City Council members. Who am I kidding?  Their intentions aren't good. There are still nine trucks left, and they're great.  I ate at three of them yesterday! LA MEX! EL TIGRE! LOS TRES HERMANOS! All of them are worth fighting for! Hell, two of them have salsa bars ON THE OUTSIDE OF THE TRUCK! You can take as much salsa, as many onions, jalapenos, carrots, napkins as your heart desires! Id heard rumors that such trucks existed, down south, yonder, always just out of my grasp, but never actually dared dream they really existed.  Until yesterday, when I experienced it first hand, right here, in Sacramento of all places! To quote a friend of mine, Calvin Racine of Raleigh, North Carolina "taco trucks are a sacred resource that needs to be protected".  It is up to all of us to save the Sacramento taco truck. We must not, neigh, CANNOT let them go the way of the Dodo.  We have to draw a line in the sand, if not us, now, then who? When? Carne Asada is not a Crime!  End the Taco Truck Haulacaust ! Won't somebody think of the children? Won't somebody. . . . . think. . . . of the children?  * a single tear slides down the cheek of a  6 year old girl as the last taco truck is dragged away* END SCENE

 

 

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February 25, 2010 | 8:09 PM
It's "Weatherstone," a long-hallowed name in Sacramento coffee shop history (it has been there since around 1969 under several different owners) but that's a minor quibble.

I don't know the whole story behind it, but my assumption is that local restaurant interests lobbied the city council to get that passed. There are some folks who are working on a taco truck/food cart festival across the river in West Sacramento right on the riverfront, primarily to shame the city of Sacramento for being so unfriendly to mobile food.

El Tigre is mighty good...whenever I visit Thrift Town if they are there I get something! I like th tacos de lengua.
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February 25, 2010 | 8:19 PM
Yeah, I didn't really do my due diligence on Weatherstone, but it certainly feels like its got some history. It deserves to be shamed for that, street food is a wonderful thing. It should be lauded, not forced underground, or West, as the case may be. El Tigre was my favorite of the three, even though it is the only one without the salsa bar. The taco pictured is one of theirs. Also, they are super friendly. Thanks for reading
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February 25, 2010 | 9:00 PM
Another great post. I will state that while El Grullo is the bomb and as taco "trucks" go it is leaps and bounds better than anywhere I've been, the tacos from the window at the gas station off of Marsh Rd. (by the Key Market) are the best damn tacos in the world.
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February 25, 2010 | 11:08 PM
I think it's a fair competition issue. If you are paying rent on the space you operate your business, you don't see fairness in someone just rolling up and skimming sales from the top without the expense.
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August 25, 2010 | 1:36 PM
Actually, most of the taco trucks are either on private property they own (like the one on Peralta and Northgate) or else they pay rent to use a private parking lot.
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February 26, 2010 | 6:23 AM
But it is fair. . . . if being in a truck offers is so advantageous, restaurant owners are free to stop paying rent and move into a truck. Or at least they were until recently.
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February 26, 2010 | 9:51 AM
I'm a fan of the taco trucks. I don't think they take business away from regular restaurants at all. Most people never eat at them.
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edited on  February 26, 2010 | 9:55 AM
How is it fair for a restaurant to obstruct free enterprise based soley on the fact that they were there first? Hands off our Taco trucks! Bring 'em downtown asap
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February 26, 2010 | 12:09 PM
If a restaurant closes down due to competition from a taco truck, I'd wager that restaurant was going to eventually close down anyway. There are many cities with a thriving food cart scene - you could even argue that it's one of the biggest food trends in the country right now. It's embarassing that Sacramento has made them illegal.
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February 26, 2010 | 1:59 PM
Government knows best, hard to argue.
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edited on  February 26, 2010 | 7:16 PM
The original Weatherstone was operating very successfully when I first moved here, 34 years ago this June. It was a true Coffee House of that era. I traveled a lot so I was not able to go there as much as I liked. My visiting NYC and SF friends thought it was a great place too. A small cottage had recently been torn down where the patio is now. Cars grew on it and a dumpster sat against the back wall.

Inside no tables or chairs matched. Various local artists' paintings hung on the walls. Some sold. Coffee, an assortment of teas and hot chocolate were served in small white cups. Neighbors and patrons used to joke that they only had to walk in or walk by when the doors opened to get high. Patrons were quiet and mellow, read short prose or poetry, Current politics and social issues were the main topics. It opened at 8:00 or 8:30 a.m and closed at 8:30 or 9:00 pm. Patrons worked and walked home early to their homes as far as East Sacramento.

Then, Lee, the owner came down with throat cancer. He was forced to sell the Coffee House and new owners commercialized it.
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February 27, 2010 | 12:02 PM
Wait! It's too early to call Old Soul "commercialized". Starbucks...yes...but Old Soul needs a dozen more stores before we can start demonizing them as the man.
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February 28, 2010 | 10:14 AM
Richard, it is best when you level such false accusations that you get your historical facts straight first. Where were you when Lee sold the business circa 1981? OSW is the third owner after Lee sold. Further, businesses does not have to be a chain to "commercialize" their operations.
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February 26, 2010 | 9:40 PM
Sounds like it was a hell of a spot, It still beats the pants off Starbucks.
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February 26, 2010 | 9:56 PM
What's the difference between Taco Trucks and the tons of Hot Dog carts downtown? Aren't they both considered "mobile food" ? Is the City going to shut down the big bad hot dogs too due to "unfairness"?
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February 27, 2010 | 12:17 PM
is there a link to a story somewhere about what the City is proposing?
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February 27, 2010 | 4:24 PM
Jerry, heres a link to the petition to stop it.
http://www.yumtacos.com/2008/07/petition-save-s.html
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March 1, 2010 | 10:11 AM
Don't give up the fight. Up here in Seattle we went the opposite way by relaxing the restrictions on mobile food. You wouldn't believe the choices we have now, and it's all delicious and affordable.
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March 2, 2010 | 10:11 AM
Had the best Lingua Burrito at a Taco Truck at a pic-n-pull in Rancho Cordova. a few years back

Nows the time to lighten the laws with so many out of work and the need for innovative "peasant food" that feeds the masses well for a good price. Im ashamed of our city for this random act of suppression. We need to look at the great cities of Seatle and Portland for guidence on how to make our city more livable
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March 2, 2010 | 2:35 PM
I couldn't agree with you more. Street food is flourishing and growing all over the country. A friend of mine owns and operates a korean taco truck in portland. It's fantastic. There are amazing creme brulee trucks in New York and San Francisco. It's not just taco trucks that we are talking about. At a time when street food is being embraced like never before, to put laws in place to restrict or even prevent it is shortsighted and downright embarrassing.
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March 3, 2010 | 9:17 AM
Think of it. a random stop off the side of the road for a creme brulee to pick up your spirits. Small thing but you have more people OUT on the street and thats good for everyone.
deserted streets are a cancer as the infamous furlow friday has shown us. Let people live!
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March 3, 2010 | 12:56 PM
The ordinance prohibiting taco trucks is another example of the misguided myopic thinking of Sacramento's officials and business leaders. It's the same reckoning that produced the K Street mall mess and an Interstate freeway through the middle of Sacramento's business district. Maybe we should ask each candidate running for the city counsel to take a public stand on this issue. BTW, what happened to the petition? It's been almost two years since it was started.
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March 3, 2010 | 1:48 PM
I am wondering that myself allan. I'm going to investigate it further, and report back.
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March 6, 2010 | 12:02 PM
Well, in their defense, plenty of American used the boneheaded idea of cities ran highways through their business districts, as a way to simultaneously ease commutes and demolish their African-American neighborhoods, along with "urban renewal" to turn non-white neighborhoods into expansions of the business district. Look at the history of San Francisco, Los Angeles, St. Louis, and plenty of other American cities who used similar strategies. Misguided, myopic thinking is hardly limited to Sacramento--it's something of an American urban tradition.
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December 23, 2010 | 10:32 AM
Hey your story is amazing.. What a creative sense you have. I think you are right we need to get on city counsel and put a stop to them limiting what we want to do as individuals. .. Believe it or not the coffee cart was my idea. I fought and fought for years with city counsel about my espresso cart. Only to have others, bribe someone on city counsel and steal my idea after hearing about it from a city counsel meeting. and have there carts placed in buildings. and storefronts. Smaller government is what we need.. We need to bind the hands of these criminals trying to regulate for the wrong purposes. Perhaps so they can again still the market... Those Bastids.!
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